7 Horrible Mistakes You’re Making As A Makeup Artist
As makeup artists, we have a great responsibility to create faces that are flawless to the naked eye as well as the camera lens. Social media content over the years has brought great pressure and in some ways changed the nature of the game, with platforms being saturated with overly airbrushed images, textureless skin, beaming highlighter and graphic, cut crease eyeshadow everywhere. With these type of images flooding our time lines, I feel like a lot of good artists are being influenced to mimic these unrealistic images and in some ways its stealing our creativity and initiating a generic look for makeup. So here are my 7 Horrible Mistakes I feel some makeup artists are making and how we can get back to beautiful makeup, still flawless, but embracing skin texture, soft contouring instead of carved lines and so on…..
Horrible mistake number one- Not blending, or not nearly quite enough!
I cannot stress enough how important blending is, blend, blend,blend,blend,blend! The key to flawless makeup is all in the blend. Sponges should be your best friend! Products should merge and not create seams, as these give away the whole illusion. Even a full coverage foundation doesn’t need to look like a mask. And within this horrible mistake I have seen makeup artists try and use them dry. Its not an eraser honey, wet that sponge until it doubles in size and becomes soft and press into the skin so that the product becomes one with the skin. I do this at all stages, foundation, concealer, cream contour etc.
My favourite brand to use is Barely There Cosmetics but you can find them everywhere now.
Number two – Not setting concealer around the eyes
I undertstand some clients want dewy fresh skin and I myself am a huge fan of this look, but I hear too many clients complaining of concealer creasing and sliding. Even with a dewy look, the eyelids or under eyes do not need to have that kind of glow. Powder those babies, set with translucent powder, making sure it’s a good fine milled one as to avoid it looking cakey. Press in the powder with your damp sponge and dust off the excess with a fluffy brush. Voila, we have concealer that will stay in place, not crease (again not giving away the illusion and making it obvious there is product on the skin)
My choice is Laura Mercier as my go to translucent powder, I use this on all my clients!
Number three – Using powder highlighters on all skin types
As much as I said before about embracing skin texture, we do not need to be highlighting Susannes overly dilated pores with a shimmery powder. As with all other products, certain textures just don’t marry well with certain skin types. As someone with large open pores myself I know how grainy and even more dilated the glittery dry powder highlighters can make my skin look. Find other ways to emphasise those high planes of the face, like banana powders ( I tend to use Rodial as its non cakey and builds well).
Or if you haven’t already, try some liquid highlighters like cover fx, these are my favourite at the moment. You can also use a wet brush to apply a powder highlight, just get playing with different textures and see what works for you on different skins.
Number four – Not trimming lashes to size.
Okay, this is something so simple, that can again, ruin the illusion of your work and even potentially age your client by about ten years if you’re making her poor eyes droop at the outer edge with lashes that maybe just needed a fraction at the end cut off. Also, unless you’re doing some creative, editorial work, please do not trim them from the inner corners, this is your lash blend. The shorter your lashes are from the inner corner, the more natural they will appear to blend with the natural lash. If you start cutting from the inside the longer the starting lash will be, giving a less natural appearance. So trim those lashes to size and go forth and lift those previously hooded lids!
Number five – Following social media trends
I think there is a time and place for certain makeup and of course give your client what they want. But, what truly makes you, you, is your own personal style. Be inspired and put your own mark on something, but stand apart from “social media makeupartists” who are all creating the same look and such harsh and dramatic looks that god knows what they looked like before they went in with the airbrushing and editing before they uploaded to social media. So for the record you don’t need to outline with marker where your clients eye socket is!
Number six – Over editing your work
Many of us use social media platforms as our portfolios these days, with a new age ability to reach people in some serious numbers and in places we may have never even have thought before. With affordable cameras and easy to use apps giving us the artists, the opportunity to immediately capture our own work, edit like a pro and instantly upload to the masses. Its amazing! However……. Too many artists are getting way too reliant on the convenience of editing their work. I understand eradicating the odd blemish on a clients skin, smoothing out the texture a little, I understand sharpening the image and just generally enhancing in some ways. But a makeupartist shouldn’t have to blur the eyeshadow on an app where their blending work is just not cutting it. I’ve seen some makeupartists blur the whole skin to the point the poor client no longer has a nose bridge, or any facial definition for that fact. Lets just say I’ve seen pugs with better bone structure!
Practise your craft on the flesh and less in the app. Let your portfolio show a true reflection of your artistry and skill set, or else you may have some unhappy clients, when you cannot reproduce the work you claim to be yours via your images. This is also how we end up with clients that want you to rid them of wrinkles and lumps and bumps, because according to your social media, this is what you do.
Number seven – Believing you have learnt all there is to know
Never stop learning guys! No one knows it all. Only you can create your work. Only you can be you. So don’t be scared to share your knowledge. Your work can be imitated, but never duplicated. In helping others you will often find you’ve learnt something at the same time. Also invest in yourself as you would any other business! Attend masterclasses, buy a camera, do workshops and keep your portfolio fresh and up to date. Be your own competition and keep expanding and strengthening your artistry. Our industry is so fast paced and trends and techniques are forever developing and changing, working with others keeps us fresh and in the know.
So to wrap it up, we all make mistakes, but lets learn from them and keep those time lines pretty.
Links – Barely There Cosmetics https://barelycosmetics.com/products/barely-definer-soft-nude
My Instagram is @keshiagolbourne